Nalanda Gedige: a unique temple at Sri Lanka’s centrepoint – BY MAHIL WIJESINGHE

After visiting the Dambulla cave temple complex, we detoured to visit another ancient point of interest, south of Dambulla which is none other than a solitary shrine of Nalanda Gedige. It is believed to lie at the heart of the island and it is at the centre of the Cultural Triangle of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy. This architecturally unique structure is considered as the only such construction found in Sri Lanka, constructed during the 8th Century.

Hindu and Buddhist architecture

It is the earliest known all-stone building in Sri Lanka and one of the most remarkable examples of the amalgamation of Hindu and Buddhist architecture. Probably, a Mahayanist shrine, its stones now being reassembled contains rare Tantric carvings of a sexual theme. It is on the bund of a reservoir just east of the A9 Route, 19 kilometres south of Dambulla.

Nalanda Gedige nestles under a wooded forest canopy surrounded by an enchanting reservoir. The promenade that leads you to the shrine is shrouded with foliage and trees. The stone pillars on either side of the path will lead you to the sight of intricate stone carvings. A small museum is set up by the Department of Archaeology and located at the car park. You can get first-hand information on the site before embarking on your visit to the site.

Modern-day reconstruction

The Nalanda Gedige itself is the result of a remarkable feat of modern-day reconstruction and restoration. During the 1970s, the entire site was completely dismantled to make way for the Bowatenna Reservoir, the Mahaweli hydro power project which flooded the surrounding area. In 1977, it was decided to reassemble the whole complex on the same site and it was rebuilt on a terrace which was raised some 23 feet above the water level.

It was reached by an elevated causeway which bridged the waters and led right up to the shrine. Today the temple stands upon a wide-open terrace, an island of tranquil beauty surrounded by calm, still waters. It was reconstructed under the guidance of UNESCO cultural project and harmoniously proportioned, this edifice which is part of the Cultural Triangle looks like a stone reliquary.

Nalanda Gedige was hidden in the forest for centuries until it was finally unearthed by the first Commissioner of the Archaeological Department H.P.C. Bell in 1898. After restoration work was done, during the subsequent period, the features of the Gedige emerged and became a popular place of tourist attraction.

Its re-construction is ambiguously dated by many archaeologists. According to some associated inscriptional evidence of the 8th Century, former Archaeological Commissioner, Prof. Senarath Paranavitana assigned this shrine to the late Pallava style of about the 8th Century.

It is believed that the site was fortified by King Parakramabahu in the second half of the 12th Century and endowed with a monastery between the 8 and 10th Century.

The Nalanda Gedige is considered to have been a sanctuary dedicated to the Mahayana Chapter with pronounced Trantric learnings. At first glance, the temple bears a great resemblance to a Hindu shrine. It has very little in common with classic Sinhala architecture.

The Cholas regained over ancient Sri Lanka for three generations. Stone temples in the Dravidian design proliferated in Polonnaruwa during this period. Artists emulated structures from solid brick mass to construct the finest monastic complexes. They embellished the façades and stone columns with ‘Shaivite’ and ‘Vaishnavite’ detail. Just as any South Indian shrine, you could see Hindu motifs and deities such as Ganesh, Lakshmi and Kuvera adorning the Nalanda Gedige’s image house.

The Gedige consists of a Mandapaya and a Vimana, the structure over the inner sanctum. The ‘Sikhara,’ a dome-shaped crowning cap above the Vimana is an architectural marvel. The pillared antechamber is surrounded by an ambulatory. The image shrine houses a standing Buddha statue and a statue of God Ganesh.

Decorated entrance

The main features of the edifice contain a shrine room together with a decorated entrance containing a moonstone and balustrades. The structure is built entirely out of stone. It depicts the South Indian architectural style of Pallava rulers in the 8th Century depicting the ‘Ganesa Ratha’ style popular in Mahabalipuram in Madras in the 7th Century AD in South India.

Archaeologists believe that this monument provides an example of synthesis between Theravada and Mahayana forms of worship, on the one hand and between Buddhism and Hinduism on the other. The sculptures of Bodhisattva Padmapani and his father Amitabha depict the Mahayana influence.

Kuvera

The carving of the God of wealth, Kuvera, appears to be squatting on a lotus plinth, on the south side of the tympanum over the sanctuary. This is the only image of Kuvera to be found in Sri Lanka.

The most interesting motif in the Gedige is the erotic Tantric carving known as the ‘Manava Maithunyaya’ which depicts the sexual union of a lion, man and a woman. A similar sexual theme can be seen in the sculptures in the Khajuraho temple in India. These sculptures representing the erotic scenes unusual for a Buddhist Vihara were due to the influence of Hindu architecture.