From Bhutan to Sri Lanka: The roadside adventure that uncovered a subcontinent – By Farah Celjo
Source : sbs.com.au
With over 100 vegetarian and vegan recipes on offer – this is a story 50 years in the making for chef Peter Kuruvita… he just didn’t know it yet.
“It’s been four years in the making,” chef and beloved SBS star Peter Kuruvita tells SBS. But in fact, this book has been brewing since the late 60s, he just didn’t know it yet.
While you may be accustomed to Peter showing us how to cook amazing fish; sharing the sweet side of black olives (by turning it into caramel – yes!) or perhaps, that camel milk is more than what Cleopatra bathed in; it’s actually a childhood holiday that has written this chef’s next chapter.
Born in London to an Austrian mother and a Sri Lankan father, Peter spent much of his childhood in Sri Lanka before moving to Australia with his parents. This particular story is wedged along the way and is deeply inspired by his family’s overland adventures from London to Sri Lanka back in 1968.
Welcome to Lands of the Curry Leaf (enter here to win your copy) – the cookbook that contains a vegetarian-filled backpack perfect for accompanying you on this Indian subcontinent expedition. From Bhutan, Nepal and Afghanistan to India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Peter’s homeland, Sri Lanka, this is not just a cookbook, but a family heirloom.
“There are a lot of western vegetarian books on offer as well a lot of Indian ones but nothing that really encompassed the entire subcontinent. So I decided to weave in stories from my family travels alongside vegetarian foods from the subcontinent.”
So why vegetarian?
“I really want this to become a vegetarian go-to. It’s really a guide to food and cuisines that aren’t always associated with “vegetarian food,” Peter tells SBS. And this book is a street food meets plant-based goldmine – pulses and legumes, salads, curries, stir-fries and stews, rice, soups, desserts, chutneys and sauces plus (the most important part!) everything you need to know about setting up your own subcontinental pantry; tempering and blending spices and adapting authentic regional cooking methods for your own kitchen at home – this book covers it all.
While for Peter, cooking with an abundance of vegetables was a very natural thing, he wanted to impart his knowledge and family story by uncovering this regions pantry-to-plate potential. “There are a lot of western vegetarian books on offer as well a lot of Indian ones but nothing that really encompassed the entire subcontinent. So I decided to weave in stories from my family travels alongside vegetarian foods from the subcontinent,” he says.
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Food and memory go hand-in-hand
While there are probably far too many memories that Peter can recount (and go beyond this article’s word count), Peter’s stories range from his earliest food memory of his dad feeding him rice and curry with his fingers, traveling as a young chef out of his apprenticeship, “celebrating my 21st birthday drinking mango lassi and eating banana pancakes along the banks of the Ganges River” to the present day, as an established chef, husband and father.
This book is a coming together of Peter’s upbringing with his travels in what he calls “his part of the world, somewhere I feel so connected”. From feasting in the footsteps of his father to giving some recognition to the cuisines that are making their mark, this is about celebrating vegetables and that meat doesn’t have to be the only main event.
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This book is for… Everyone! It doesn’t matter if you’re an omnivore or carnivore, enjoy them on their own or simply place your favourite protein on or with any of the dishes – it all works.
What I want is… People to get the book dirty. Mess it up with turmeric and saffron fingers, make notes in it as they go and I hope it becomes a guide to a healthier and unique way of cooking and eating.
The thing that surprised me most… It’s not until you go scratching beyond the surface that you begin to really cook. While not all the countries in the region – Afghanistan, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Pakistan – might have an apparent “vegetarian cuisine”, don’t let that fool you, because vegetables are celebrated more than expected, especially once you unravel the history and culture of the regions.
The place that surprised me the most… Bhutan. Chillies and cheese make up its national dish, and the liberal and frequent use of very hot chillies throughout the country even made my mouth cringe.
To master the Sri Lankan cooking you must… Use fresh spices and remember that it is NOT like Indian food – yes, we certainly are intertwined through history and culture, but the food is different. The first thing people usually say to me when they taste Sri Lankan food is “ I thought it would be like Indian food,” both deserve respect for their diversity.
The recipe/s that I hold close to my heart would be… the snacks and curries of Sri Lanka. Because… of my own childhood memories and upbringing. The deep respect and fondness I have for these flavours and dishes energises me to ensure they continue to live and breath in my kids. I love Australia and cooking, learning and eating these Sri Lankan foods gives me a sense of place and purpose in this world – these dishes are just a part of my own story and that’s what I never want to forget.
Cook the book
Bhutanese red rice salad
“It is hard to find salads from regions that are high, cold and remote, and in Bhutan red rice is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner in many guises. This salad includes hazelnuts, which thrive in Bhutan and are being planted there in huge numbers, helping local people earn a living.
Mumbai frankie rolls
“Originally a simple man’s food to help get through the day, this quick and filling dish hails from Mumbai, as the name would suggest. It is an amazing snack for those on the run – spicy, tasty and so easy to make.”
Uttapam (Semolina pancake)
Traditionally, this popular dish from southern India is made with a rice and lentil batter that can be time-consuming to prepare. This bread uttapam, on the other hand, is easy to make and quick to cook, not to mention it tastes delicious. Essentially it is an Indian pizza, so get creative with your ingredients and place whatever you like on top.
Cardamom kulfi
The subcontinent’s favourite ice cream, kulfi is cleansing, cooling and invigorating. It is flavoured with beautiful spices from its Persian origins, and can also contain fruit such as mango or banana.
Peray (Bengali cottage cheese dessert)
“Really sweet and typically Asian, this is a great never-fail recipe. It makes a lovely one-off dessert or another addition to your subcontinental high tea. It is best made a day ahead, to give it time to set.”
