PALANQUIN TOURS

MEMORIES OF THOMAS VAN RHEE GOVENOR AND DIRECTOR OF CEYLON FOR HIS SUCCESSOR             

CERRIT DE HEERE 1767. TRANSLATED BY SOPHIA ANTHONIS       

   JOHN PYBUSS MISSION TO KANDY IN 1762

The name of the place we halted at is Canvetty. Some of the small hills, by the side of which we passed were entirely cleared of woods, and covered with a fine turf, with cattle grazing on them.

18th. waited here for the King’s leave to proceed [not being about fourteen miles from the river Mahaveli Ganga] till 40 minutes past 11 a.m. when we set out my friend the General going before whom I have not seen today.

Mahaweli Crossing 

1. Kahawatta on the high road to Matale.  2. Palanquin. May 24. The weather tolerably fair in the morning but the afternoon very heavy rain; and about half past 5 pm. the officer came to acquaint me that one of the head Generals and others of distinction were come on to the other side of the river form the King.

I then desired they would acquaint me whether any, and what ceremony was to be observed in carrying this letter, which readily consenting to,  they conducted me into the room where the letter was lodged, and producing a silver salver, which they had brought with them for the purpose, covered with two or three pieces of fine muslin.

They desired I would deliver them the letter, which having done, they laid it upon the muslin, covering it again with a as many folds more , and over all a square piece of silver tissue, with large silver tassels at each corner, and then delivered the dish into my hands, which, by their directions, I carried out a few steps from the room,  white cloth being spread on the ground as far as I was to walk with it, holding it a little above my head, where a person received it from me and passed it upon his head, two people holding a canopy over it made of China silks ,such as are used by the Moors.

While this was doing, two drums and some country musick, which had been brought for that purpose, began to beat, and eleven guns were fired from the other side of the river.

In this manner, they told me, it was to be carried before us all the way to Candia, where, after entering the King’s house, I was to receive it and present it to His Majesty: and this , all the ceremony which although trifling and ridiculous as it appeared ,  I made no objections against complying with.

Accordingly, we set out about 7 o’clock. Heavy rain still continuing, drums beating, country musick playing, and a number of lights before us, as we marched. We halted on the side of the river, and there stood, till all the people who were with us passed over, which, as there was only one canoe or ferry boat, and a strong stream in the river, was tedious. The letter passed over with us, and a quarter past 8, we were landed on the other side.

‘’ STREETS ILLUMINATED’’ The streets were all illuminated with lamps on each side on the pials before the houses, which was never known to be done before or any other occation than when the King went abroad; and when we came within about two hundred yards within the Kings house , we stopped again, till leave came from the king to proceed.

The General who was with me then desired to interpreter to acquaint me, that I must kneel when I appeared with the letter before the King, which I peremptorily refused to comply, with having dealt very disingenuously and unhandsomely by me; as I had desired before we set out, that they would acquaint me with the ceremony which was to be used on this occation when nothing of this sort was mentioned.

In vain I urged that I did not come on the footing the Dutch ambassadors do; that I came on the Kings particular request; that some English gentlemen might be sent to treat with him; and that I had not been acquainted that any such ceremony was expected of me; but all I could say had no weight: comply I must; and as I was by no means in a situation to help myself. I could do no otherwise than submit.

Here we were met by another General from the King, to give us leave to advance; and when we came to the door of the Kings house, we waited there for some time for admittance, when the General who met me at the Caravetty came out to introduce us. I should have observed that I was desired to stand fronting the door of the house, and after passing with my hat off. We now entered the house and after passing the second door into a square court, where were standing three state elephants, and as many horses handsomely ornamented. I was told that the King’s head General was coming out there to meet me, and that I must pull off my shoes.

It was very dirty here, on account of the rain which had fallen, and therefore I told them I objected to pulling off my shoes till I came to a place where I might walk clean.

I TAKE OFF MY SHOES Upon which, I was led within three or four yards of a little verandah, from where the head General came, and here I consented to take off my shoes, [concluding the verandah led to the room of audience], and walked with the General, who made some complementary speeches in the name of the King, which, fatigue, hungry, and out of humour as I was, I gave but very short answers to. From this verandah, we passed on to another open verandah about eighteen or twenty feet square, where we stop, as that led directly to the hall of state, at the door of which, fronting us, was a curtain of white linen let down.

In this verandah were placed twelve men, by way of guards, dressed in long white linen coats, six on each side, with weapons in their hands much like a sergeant’s halberd.

Here I had the silver dish with the letter given to me to hold it as it was silver quarter of an hour after we were here before His Majesty did us the honour to show himself, I was obliged to get the linguist and some of the Kings officers who were near me to hold it, for I could not.

At length , the white curtain at the door was drawn up, behind which, a few yards advanced , in the hall, was a red one, this being drawn , a little further was a white one; and so on, for six different curtains, which discovered the end of the hall, where was a door with another white curtain before it.

A few minutes afterwards, this was drawn and discovered to us the King seated on a throne, which was a large chair, handsomely carved and guilt, raised about three feet from the floor.

Upon the drawing of the last curtain, I continued standing with the dish on my head, till I was pulled down by the skirts of my coat, and forced to kneel upon one knee on the bare ground, holding the silver dish above my head.

The General and other officers belonging to the court prostrated themselves on the ground at full length six several times, each time saying in the Cinggalese language a few words which I have not been able to get explained, but I conclude to have been some respectful complements.

The King I observed two or three times during this ceremony, said something to them in very short sentences, which I could not learn the meaning of. They then got up, as I did likewise, and advancing two or three paces further within a few feet of the steps of the great hall, the same ceremony was repeated.

We then entered the hall, immediately upon which, I was brought down, upon both knees, and the Generals repeated the same ceremony as before.

We then advanced a little further, just to the end of a large Persian carpet with which the floor was covered, where the ceremony was again repeated; I was led by two of the Generals to the Throne of state, upon the lower step of which was a little cushion. Upon this I knelt with one knee and presented the letter, which His Majesty immediately received out of the salver, which was taken from me by one of the Generals, and I retired backwards to the end of the Persian carpet, where I was obliged to kneel again, but His Majesty was then pleased to desire I would sit in such manner as was most easy to me with which I readily complied.

A Persian Carpet

The walls, ceiling and he floor, were all covered, with white cloth, except where the Persian carpet was spread; and I should have been well enough pleased with the appearance made had I been in a more agreeable situation

On each side of the hall sat three of the people belonging to the Kings House hold, with a cloth above their heads like the head dress of an Armenian woman; and a narrow slip of cloth went from thence under their mouths, hardly of breadth sufficient to cover their lips. Of these some had lances and bows and arrows, in their hands; they are called in the Cinggalese language Rangavadum [1] or the Golden Arm Bearers having the charge of such arms as are for the King’s use, and the King would make use any of the arms held by these people, the piece of cloth I have taken notice of, is to cover their mouths with when they approach him to deliver them, that they may not defile him with their breadth.

On each side of the door entering in to the palace where the King sat was a square wooden stool with each a wax candle on it and at that on the left hand , sat a secretary , who wrote all the time the King was asking me questions, which I suppose to have been his questions and my answers.

He then desired I might be told he had not words to express the joy and satisfaction he felt at what I had said to him. And indeed, I believe in this that he was sincere, for I am persuaded he would grant us any privilege to induce us to settle on the island, and assist him in driving off the Dutch.

No business would be done that night, I might ask leave to withdraw; which being a very agreeable proposal, I desired they would make it, if his Majesty had no further commands for me; and to acquaint him, at the same time, that I should be ready to wait on him, to discourse upon business, whenever he should think proper to send for me

This being signified to him, he gave his consent immediately, and I withdrew.