Embekke Devalaya: Sublime edifice of wood carvings
Source:Dailynews
Sri Lankan craftsmen and artistes have dazzled us for decades. Their skills passed down for generations, are unique in a certain sense as each country has its distinct national and regional designs. Thankfully, our glorious monarchs realised the value of these men and supported their artistic talents, which still impresses thousands of tourists who visit this paradise island.
One of my favourite sites to appreciate wood-related carvings is Embekke Devalaya, in the Kandy region. Kandy is an ancient city embellished with temples and temple-related sculptures and paintings. Embekke Devalaya is one venue where the adroitness of our ancient craftsmen commands our attention. This site has indeed gained global attention. UNESCO duly recognised these remarkable wood carvings at Embekke Devalaya as one of the unique collections to be found anywhere in the world. These magnificent carvings feature an intricate display of ancient Sinhalese art which have lasted for centuries. Embekke Devalaya thus manifests itself as an iconic landmark of opulent Sri Lankan wood carvings.
The dazzling venue can be reached from Pilimathalawa on the main Kandy road. In spite of its global fame, the area presents a serene atmosphere. This is conducive to appreciating the ornate designs that reign supreme. We passed green paddy fields as we headed towards this venue. Except for the Sanctum, the rest of Embekke Devalaya is made almost entirely of wood, a striking contrast to the steel and concrete buildings of today. The temple was built in the Gampola era (1357–1374 AD) and is dedicated to Kataragama Deviyo. The prudent use of wood enriches the soul of this devalaya. The most alluring place in these premises is the Drummer’s Hall (madduwa) due to its architectural features adorned with ornate wood carvings on its sturdy pillars and doorframes. The building is approximately 52 feet long and 25 feet wide. Amazingly, it is raised with the support of 32 wooden pillars. The pillars have stood for centuries. It is also built on a granite base about 35 inches high.
I observed the wooden pillars supporting this building are made utilising two different shapes – square and octagonal. The bases of the pillars are octagonal while their top sections end in the shapes of four leaves stacked in a square created as Pekada. These pillars are made of indigenous Sri Lankan trees such as Gammalu, Ginisapu, Burutha, Halmilla and Na. According to oral tradition, the core of the tree is ripped off and taken away to patiently hand carve these solid pillars. Then they are supposedly dipped in oil and have been finely seasoned. This explains why there is no termite damage after centuries. It also reminds us that our wise forefathers were indeed the pioneers of green and sustainability concepts.
The roof of this hall is also able to captivate the visitors with its unique designs, a notable expression of ancient Sri Lankan architecture. We realised the most visible feature here is the fitted wooden clamp of the main beam on the roof which is called the Modal Kurupawa. This large wooden pin firmly sustains 26 wooden rafters together at one end of the roof of the hall. Another awe-inspiring element is that this entire structure is made of wood. I was told even the nails used to fix the rafters have been produced with wood. This accentuates the precision and dexterity of these gifted carpenters. I was surprised to note some squirrel nests within the roof of this national treasure.
The significant feature of Embekke Devalaya is the carvings on the wooden pillars. There are many ornate images blissfully carved into the sides of these pillars. Each of them is different from one another. When we consider the carvings of the entire devalaya complex, there are about 125 series of decorations, 64 lotus designs, 30 decorative patterns and roof designs. A friend in Colombo asked me to spot an entwined elephant and bull design. It is an amazing example of the artistic expertise of Sri Lankan forefathers.
Among these famous wood carvings, one of the most beautiful is the Hansa Puttuwa, translated as the entwined swans. Others include designs of entwined rope (Lanu Gataya), festoon work (Liyawala) and images of deities (Deva Ruwa). We can see double-headed eagles, Gaja Sinha (the elephant lion), dancing female forms, wrestlers, gallant soldiers on horseback and strange birds manifesting with human figures.
The entrance of Embekke Devalaya is called Vahalkada. It has wooden pillars decorated with intricately detailed carvings. A section called the Antaralaya of this Devalaya complex has a collection of antiquities with great historical significance. There is a pair of tusks supposedly offered by King Wickramabahu. There is a palanquin given to King Rajasinghe II by the Dutch, which he thereafter bestowed on the devalaya. Additionally, there is a paddy store or vee atuwa, within the yard of the devalaya.
The building is raised on a platform on stone pillars. It is 39 feet long and 13 feet wide. The solid structure is used to store and provide the required quantity of paddy for the ritual offerings. The offerings are normally made three times a day. Since the kings’ period, an agile person has to climb the top of the paddy barn and enter via a small wooden door to take the grain.
On the outskirt of the yard of this ancient edifice, there is a building called Sinhasana Mandapaya. It is said that this building was used by the king and his royal entourage as a resting place. And also it was used as an observation place when the annual perahera was in progress. We walked to this location and from here there is a clear view of Embekke Devalaya.
A fascinating oral tradition states the construction of Embekke Devalaya. It involves a drummer from the village of Rangama, who was suffering from a skin disease. According to the tale, he had been cured after visiting Kataragama Devalaya. In deep appreciation, he had promised the Deity of Kataragama (Skanda) that he would visit the devalaya annually. He went and played his drum as promised. As he became old, he was worried that he will not be able to maintain his promise. One day, the Deity of Kataragama appeared in his dream and informed him of a miraculous place. The bewildered humble drummer got to know such a miracle has happened in the garden of Queen Henakanda Biso Bandara, the chief consort of King Wickramabahu. In the garden, there was a Kaduru tree from which blood dripped when a labourer tried to cut it down. After knowing this incident, the drummer informed the king of his supernatural dream and performed his offerings at this tree. Having duly garnered the royal patronage of King Wickramabahu III and the queen, a shrine was built in this place. From here we visited the Lankathilake temple and Gadaladeniya temple, also built in the Gampola era. Embekke Devalaya must be preserved for future generations. Its unique wood carvings are priceless.
(To be continued)
