THE SECRET OF THE SANDS – by Bernard VanCuylenburg
Epilogue.
Pursuant to the articles which I wrote last year, “An Odyssey – A Search for Heritage, parts 1 and 2 “) following a foray into the cornucopia of ruins buried in deep jungle well off the beaten track, I embarked on a similar venture in March this year. I am passionately moved by the treasure trove of what could be the best in ancient Sinhala civilization, possibly the life force of Sinhala culture which remains buried in the sands still awaiting the archaeologists spade, and I wish to share my experience with a wider circle of lovers of history. Parting the veil of time, an unknown sculptor, architect, engineer, master craftsman, even a poet, reached out to me and held my hand leading me across the centuries in my quest.
I read somewhere that “Quotations are thefts of other peoples wisdom.” If that is true I plead guilty! I have before me brilliant sources of reference which inspired my search and from which I shall quote whenever appropriate. One is the excellent book by Senani Ponnamperuma titled “The story of Anuradhapura” and the masterpiece by Loranee Senaratne titled “Heirs to History” to name just two. The wealth of information in both books and the literary sensitivity displayed therein illuminate my emotional world.
PANDUWASNUWARA – PRISTINE GLORY IN NATURE’S EMBRACE.
For centuries the city lay smothered by the forest, wrapped in a mantle of green. Its palaces and temples overhung by trees and walled about with ferns and shrubs. The only sound was that of the birds by day, and the call of monkeys travelling through the treetops. In its afterlife, this was Panduwasnuwara in ruins, only a memory dimmed to invisibility. But in time Archaeologists lifted the veil and many excavations followed. They breached the jungle fastness and rediscovered this gem of ancient Sinhalese civilization to the world.
This once magnificient city and capital filled me with a sense of mystique as I beheld it still majestic in its beautiful garden and forest setting. With a history dating back to the 6th century BC. (504 – 474 BC) the sprawling time warped ruins of Panduwasnuwara hurl you over a thousand years into the past. King Panduwasdeva created a record of sorts when he built the Panduwas Wewa Reservoir in 450 BC which is considered to be the first man made reservoir in the world. The great chronicle The Mahavamsa in its 60th chapter records that this reservoir was subject to repair by King Vijaya Bahu 1st (1070 – 1110 AD). King Parakrama Bahu 1st (1153 – 1186) expanded the reservoir as confirmed in the 68th chapter of the great chronicle. This extension led to the city where the palace complex now stands, but sadly any vestige of this expansion does not remain today. Most of the ruins still extant – and there are many – trace their origin to King Parakramabahu the 1st who in the 12th century set up a temporary capital here.
Pardon me if I digress, but confirming the reputation of ancient Lanka as a first world country in its glory days, I once visited the medieval city of Sukkhothai (The Dawn of Happiness) in Northern Thailand. I was surprised to note that some of the ancient dagobas in that city bore a striking resemblance to the dagobas in medieval Polonnaruwa. Researching Thai history I found that in the 12th century, the ruling monarch of Thailand at the time sent a diplomatic mission to King Vijaya Bahu in Polonnaruwa with a request that he send his Engineers to Thailand to build the dagobas in that city. King Vijaya Bahu acquiesced, and there the mystery was laid to rest.
Worth noting is that ancient Panduwasnuwara was well fortified by a wall forty feet thick and seven feet high, outside which was a ditch with a depth of seven feet, and width of ten feet. I found that more than a day was required if one were to take note of all the ruins here, and was compelled to make note of the most important, because time was of the essence. There is a majestic Bodhigara, Image Houses, and a well preserved Stupa. Every prospect pleases but only man is vile and treasure hunters ransacked the stupa many years ago and got away with a relic casket and the statue of a gold Buddha, which fortunately were later recovered. The King’s palace was located in the inner city. There is another building called the Queen’s palace in a good state of preservation. King Nissanka Malla of the Polonnaruwa kingdom (1187 – 1196) left two inscriptions here. One is on a slab near the palace, and the other on a rock seat commemorating his stopover on a visit from Sri Pada. (Adam’s Peak). Of special interest is the “Damila Adhikarige Vihara” named after a Tamil Minister who built it when he served under King Parakramabahu the 1st. A Tamil general who served later under King Nissanka Malla named Kulandei Panjara, added a stupa and a bhikku residence to the complex.
There is another building known as “The Dalada Maligawa” although there is no evidence that the sacred tooth relic was moved to Panduwasnuwara. A unique structure found here (unique because there is none other similar anywhere in ancient Lanka) is thought to be the foundation of the tower in which King Panduwasdewa imprisoned his daughter the beautiful Umaddachitra since her beauty set many hearts aflame with desire, smitten by her shapely form and figure. I mention this in passing because the story of this beautiful maiden is too long to relate here. Suffice to say that “Anangaya” – Cupid the God of love had a full time job. There are several pillar inscriptions scattered among the ruins, some recording grants by King Sena the second (853 – 887) and King Udaya the second (887 – 898). I have only scratched the surface in reference to the ancient glory of this beautiful site.
Panduwasnuwara in splendid isolation is an idyllic place embraced in a mantle of green, no matter which part of the city one visits. During my visit I noted that apart from my Driver/Guide and me, there were only eight visitors present. This once resplendent city is now filled with the sound of silence and its beauty is beyond dramatic. The entire area to me magnificient in its complexity and extant was, and will always be scenic and historic gold.
RIDI VIHARA – THE CROWNING GLORY.
My first impression of this jewel atop a hill bathed in the glow of the morning sun, is a mesmerizing sight which I will never forget. Ensconced in the bosom of nature in stunning landscape with panoramic views, one will have little difficulty in understanding why those solitude seeking monks in ages past came here in the first place. The sanctity is palpable, its beauty astounds, and the scenery is simply beguiling.
The genesis of the Ridi Vihara (Silver Temple) goes back to the 2nd century BC. during the reign of one of ancient Lanka’s greatest Kings – King Dutugemunu. Then, quite dramatically it literally vanished from the face of the earth in the 14th century and after a span of 300 years, was resurrected by the Nayakkar Kings of the Kandyan kingdom. King Dutugemunu during his reign embarked on a vast building spree of stupas and temples. His masterpiece was The Ruwanveli Seya but unfortunately the funds began to dry up and money was urgently needed not only to pay the construction workers but also to ensure completion of the Mahathupa. (The Swarnamali Stupa). Led by the Sangha, the King and his Ministers, monks and the public alike, embarked on a mission of prayer in this hour of dire need. True to the saying that faith can move mountains, a lode of silver was discovered in a cave in what today is Kurunegala. King Dutugemunu in gratitude built a temple by a jack fruit tree close to the cave, calling it the “Varaka Velandu Vihara”. This Vihara is an important feature of the Ridi Vihara where it stands to this very day. The Ridi Vihara in my humble opinion is an unrivalled bastion of art and religious literature, and a deeply tranquil and spiritual place. The Maha Viharaya, is in the main temple complex. The paintings in the Maha Viharaya brilliant in their original colours, illuminated my world. The statue donated by King Dutugemunu can still be seen and is located in the center of the temple. Among the nine Buddha statues, there is also a statue of the great King Dutugemunu himself.
A special feature of this statue house is a collection of porcelain tiles depicting the life of Christ which was offered to the Chief Priest of the Ridi Vihara by a 16th century Dutch Governor. This is a classic example of diplomacy at its best because relations between the Dutch and the King were strained almost to a war footing. To the credit of the temple authorities of the time, these tiles were, and are still mounted on the altar in front of the reclining Buddha statue on full public display. Among the paintings there are a large number of frescoes and murals. No matter where one wanders in the Ridi Vihaha temple complex, one’s spirit is soothed and soul enriched.
THE PAHANGALA FOREST – NATURE’S HANDIWORK WITH EXTRAORDINARY NATURAL DIVERSITY.
From the summit of Ridi Vihara one has a jaw dropping breath taking view of the Pahangala forest, spread out in all her glory as far as the eye can see. It is nature’s piece-de-resistance and an ecological and aesthetic paradise. A canopy of dark green forest meets the eye as far as vision is possible. Riparian woods with flora blooming in abundance, sun dappled vistas in the distance and the sound of silence transforms the visitor into a dreamworld. This is authentic rural charm and beauty at its zenith – an invitation to serious meditation.
REACHING OUT – THE HUMAN ELEMENT.
At the entrance to the Ridi Vihara I met the Chief Priest. He welcomed me very warmly and thanks to the Sinhalese which I learned while a student at St.Anthony’s College Kandy under the late Mr.B.L.Fernando a teacher whom I still hold in fond memory, was able to engage him in conversation. We waxed eloquent on a variety of subjects – the preservation of ancient ruins, the scourge of treasure hunters, the disrespect shown by some visitors when they visit the ancient sites, and one point we both had in common – the concept of “The Lake and the Temple” better known in Sinhalese as “The Wewai Dagaba” which sadly is non prevalent in modern society. In ancient times there was a close link between the tanks and the temples. The tanks provided livelihood for the people while the temples fulfilled their religious needs. All the villages in the kingdom were sustained by the lake and the temple. Many tanks built by the Kings were donated to the temples as confirmed by various rock inscriptions and also in The Mahavamsa. The names of many villages ended with the name of a tank and the relationship between the tank and the temple was the glue which held the very fabric of society together. It was the fulcrum to lead a wholesome and fruitful life – a philosophical beacon lighting up the way to lead a life of good deeds, and follow the teachings of the enlightened one.
Little did I realize what my meeting with the Chief priest would lead to. After I finished the tour I was getting ready to leave with my Guide/Driver Milton, when I saw a messenger running down the road beckoning us to stop. He told us that the Chief Priest had invited us for lunch. The Priests do not partake of the midday meal but we gladly accepted. We went to the residence of the Chief Priest and he welcomed us again. For awhile we enjoyed nurturing and fulfilling conversation by way of food for thought, after which he led us to a dining room where a simple but delicious meal of rice and string hoppers graced the table. Having partaken of this tasty meal we returned to the hall in his residence where further conversation followed until it was time to say ‘Goodbye’ at which I felt a tinge of sadness because by now I had warmed to this man. Suddenly, as if by the hand of fate two sayings of Lord Buddha mysteriously came to mind befitting the moment – the first was rather appropriate seeing that we were after a meal – “Karma has no menu.You get served what you deserve”. It was the second however that had a great impact on me – “One beautiful heart is better than a thousand faces. Choose people having beautiful hearts rather than faces”. Then to my surprise he presented me with a book titled “Ridi Viharaya – Silver Temple”. In literary and historical terms, this to me was the Holy Grail. I read it at night in my hotel rooms, and it now occupies a prominent place on my bookshelf.
This gentle kindly priest certainly had a beautiful heart. I will never forget him and I hope that somewhere along life’s road we will meet again.
THE TRIUNE TEMPLES – A DREAM FULFILLED.-
THE LANKATHILAKA VIHARA, THE DEGALDORUWA TEMPLE AND THE EMBEKKA DEWALA.
I first heard about these ancient gems of architecture as a schoolboy at St.Anthony’s College Kandy during my History lessons. But as a Boarder, any visit to these historic places was confined to a fantasy world. Sixty one years later the dream was fulfilled when I visited all three temples during a recent tour to archaeological sites seldom featured in the glossy tourist brochures. My first impression of the temple on a hillock in shimmering white against the
backdrop of a cerulean sky, was a vision from an ethereal world. It is said that a precious gem shines depending on the angle of vision, and my first sight of this temple in its pristine glory illuminated my spiritual world.
The Lankathilaka Raja Maha Vihara located in the village of Hiripitiya dates back to the Gampola era in the 14th century during the reign of King Buwanekabahu who reigned from 1341 – 1351 AD. Although it was his brain child he had help from an Indian Architect named Stapathi Rayer. A rock inscription in the temple confirms this. To the credit of the Kings who succeeded Buwanekabahu, they were filled with artistic zeal and fervour, had a passion for the arts and transposed their enthusiasm to those involved in its construction. Today the temple stands in supreme splendour, a testimony to the skills of the master craftsmen of that era.
The Image House in the temple with its frescoes in Kandyan style dating back to the Kandyan period, dazzles the senses with the vibrant colours almost giving them life. The gold plated statue of the Buddha in the Image house is stunning to behold. The Image House is a receptacle of artistic treasure and bastion of unparalled artistic flavour. The Lankathillaka Vihara has the reputation of being the best architectural edifice built during the Gampola Kingdom. The art of a country is the expression of a nation’s soul.
THE DEGALDORUWA TEMPLE.
If ever there was a King who was dedicated to the Arts during the Kandyan kingdom, the honour goes to King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha who reigned from 1747 – 1780. He was responsible for building the Degaldoruwa temple and records confirm that many paintings in the temples of the time were accomplished under his patronage. Unfortunately, he died before the temple was complete and his younger brother King Rajadhi Rajasinghe who reigned from 1782 – 1798 was on the throne during its completion. This King incidentally was a deeply religious man and a scholar. He spent much time reading ancient lore and at times left the duties of kingship to his chiefs. The paintings in the temple are a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours covering a variety of subjects – trees, animals, streams, fish, even the royal insigna. It is a feast to the eye. Most of the paintings in a nutshell convey an idea of life in the Kandyan kingdom by highlighting the social customs of the time. A distinctive difference can be noted in the garments worn by people in regions in the lowlands, and the highlands.
THE EMBEKKA DEVALA – A WONDERLAND OF WOODCARVING.
Built by King Vikramabahu the 3rd in the glory days of the Gampola Kingdom (1357 – 1374) this jewel in the crown is spritually uplifting and culturally rich beyond measure. It is iconic in the display of woodcarvings on display. The craftsmen who executed these wood carvings had to be divinely inspired, and produced some of the best examples of this difficult art that I have seen anywhere, even in the Buddhist temples I visited in Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.
The three main sections in this shrine are “The Sanctuary of Garagha”, (The Hall where the statue of God Kataragama is housed) “The Dancing Hall” and “The Drummer’s Hall”. The priceless and precious wood carvings can be seen in “The Drummer’s Hall”. There are over 500 designs on display featuring a variety of subjects – female dancers, wrestlers, eagles, swans, a soldier on horseback, and complicated entwined rope designs. Gifted and skilled beyond excellence, the artisans responsible for this rich legacy also produced carvings of greater depth such as a bird-human hybrid, an elephant-lion hybrid and a elephant -bull hybrid. They worked with inexhaustible skill and powers of perfection.These artisans were a people with a keen regard for their own history and heritage who clearly wanted to be remembered. It is recorded that the Master Craftsman responsible for these intricate carvings was Delmada Devendra Mulachari. But credit is also due to the craftsmen and artisans who worked under him whose supreme talent and expertise have been left to posterity.
There is also a Granary dating back from the 1300’s in an excellent state of preservation and still in use.
BUDURUWAYAYA – SPLENDOUR IN THE FOREST.
Many of the archaeological sites which I visited off the beaten track are located in areas of unsurpassed scenic beauty and wear a mantle of dark green which only nature can provide.Except for the gentle caress of the wind, there is silence – always a silence except for the soothing trill of birdsong which gives these sites a feeling of deep spirituality and a sense of mystery. Situated in the Polonnaruwa district, and located South-West of the Wasgomuwa National Park, Buduruwayaya also nestles in mother natures embrace. The site lies in splendid but majestic isolation. When I visited there were only three visitors present.
The Priest whom I met told me that apart from the villagers in the vicinity, hardly any outsiders visit this site and he could not remember when a foreigner last paid a visit here. There is a stupa in a good state of conservation and some ruins scattered through the grass and shrub. Archaeologists aver that the ruins here date back 1800 years. Of interest is a large figure of the recumbent Buddha similar to the statue found in the Gal Vihara in Polonnaruwa. However, it pains me to relate that this figure does not bear the grace, expertise, craftsmanship and majesty of the former. It must have been majestic and graceful when the sculptor first gave life to stone, but time and the vagaries of the weather have certainly taken their toll. At 12.00 noon the Monk presided at the afternoon prayer service (Vandana) accompanied by a drummer and another Assistant, before the statue of the recumbent Buddha. I was present with my Guide/Driver Milton, and with us was a family of four from the village.
I was told that in the deep forest beyond, there were numerous ruins now lost to the jungle and in time could be swallowed up by the forest growth. But even in silence Buduruwayaya still retains a vestige of her ancient grandeur.
MAPAGALA – A HIDDEN TREASURE AND THE PRINCE WHO DARED.
The passage of time and the encroaching forest and jungle guarded their secret well. For centuries, Mapagala situated only two kilometres South of the wonder that is Sigiriya, had long surrendered to the thick jungle undergrowh and forest cover, and remained lost to the world. It was in the late 1880’s that a Belgian Anthropologist named Maurice Hocart penetrated the veil of time and made this astounding discovery – the fortress of Mapagala, an ancient fortress dating back to the Anuradhapura period, over a thousand years before Prince Kasyappa built the rock fortress and garden city of Sigiriya which was, and still is a feat of engineering and architectural excellence never equalled, and continues to evoke the admiration of the world today. Many people whom I spoke to about Mapagala had never heard about it.
The discovery of the Mapagala fortress resulted in some astounding facts. The walls of the fortress were surrounded by massive blocks of granite which were so perfectly cut that the authorities are of the opinion that the smelting of iron was done and iron tools were used during construction. H.C.P.Bell opined that these blocks of granite were similar to those used by the Incas of Peru who built the fortress of Sacsaywaman in 1536 in the region around Cuzco the Inca capital. I visited Peru and spent almost an entire day visiting this fortress which is a magnificient three-tiered zigzag fortification marvellous to behold. One stone incredibly weighs more than 300 tons. Conversely, Mr.Bell was also of the opinion that the granite blocks at Mapagala date back to the period when Sigiriya was occupied in the 5th century. But it only proves that the skill of the builders of Mapagala was equal to that of the ancient Inca engineers of Peru. Much of the fortress is still buried and only a section of the retaining wall can be seen. There is no stairway to the summit. I was informed by an official of the Archaeological Department that there were plans to build a stairway to the summit, but this would take a long time. The climb at present is not for the faint hearted. I was helped by Milton my Driver/Guide, and a very obliging employee of the Archaeological Department, Bandara. Going down is as hard as climbing up, and maximum caution must be exercised. It is better to climb Mapagala with the thought that there is safety in numbers. Attempting to climb it alone is risky. But after those words of caution, it must be said that a veritable feast for the senses awaits one who reaches the summit.
Mapagala proves that the best view comes after the hardest climb. From the summit unparalled vistas await you. As far as the eye can see natures canvas unfolds – rolling hills, distant mountains, dotted with glistening lakes in the sunlight, and the English language accurately fails to describe the varied blue, green, and in the deepest shadows, the purple hues. A phrase which I like to use is that “nature has run riot with her paintbrush”. It is a scene fit for a God. One is at a loss for words as this heavenly vision unfurls. You hold your breath each time the views come at you from all angles. There are vistas of Trincomalee, Anuradhapura, Vavuniya and even the ancient Ritigala temple .
And then, this is the jewel in the crown to me. As if dropped from a heavenly cloud, Sigiriya comes before you as you have never seen her before. When you are IN Sigiriya you see it in different ways, but the view from the summit of Mapagala is spellbinding. Weaving a magical spell, this vision of King Kasyappa’s garden city seems to embrace you in all her might, majesty, and mystery. I spotted a section of wall a few feet below the actual Mirror Wall. On inquiry, Bandara told me that it is another section of wall which still awaits excavation, adding that there are several ruins in the section of forest below the mirror wall awaiting the archaeologist’s spade.
King Kasyappa’s visit to Mapagala was played out against the backdrop and drama resulting in the murder of his father King Dhatusena. Aware that his brother Prince Moggallana would one day return to claim his heritage he intended to shift the capital to Anuradhapura, and was searching for a new location for his capital. His visit to Mapagala was where the penny dropped after he had his first view of Sigiriya rock. I am convinced that this vision splendid was pivotal in his decision to make Sigiriya his capital. Brave deeds run like a golden thread through the chequered history of ancient Lanka, and more than any other monument from ancient Lanka’s glory, King Kasyappa bequeathed posterity a treasure which still inflames the imagination.The three members of the Archaeology Department’s staff never told me the climb would be easy. They just said it would be worth it, and they were right. As Nelson Mandela once remarked “It always seems impossible until it is done”. From Mapagala our next port of call was The Kaveri Ayurvedic Resort located in beautiful forest and a enchanting landscaped garden setting.The area surrounding the hotel abounds in ayurvedic herbs and plants of every description, and the atmosphere prevailing is healing and serene. After breakfast the next morning we headed for the Nilaveli Beach Hotel, my former Employer where I spent a welcome break of rest and recreation after days of intense travel which included much walking and on two occasions very difficult climbing. The lazy hazy days and the moonlit nights with the moonbeams playing on the silvery waters was a fairy tale.
KIMBULAGALA. – (“CROCODILE ROCK “) – A GIANT’S TALE.
A few days later, in dawn’s early light when the blue of the night met the gold of the day, I headed for Kimbulagala a remote historical site situated in the Horowapathana district. This time an employee of the Hotel Mr.Udaya Bandara the acting Housekeeper accompanied me as a Guide. His home town is Anuradhapura and he was familiar with the geography of Kimbulagala. The drive to Kimbulagala was picturesque as the roads – specially the roads in the remote interior, ran through sylvan surroundings resulting in picture book scenery.
This unique topographical rock formation resembles a crocodile and dominates the landscape from a distance, but there is more to Kimbulagala than its name. There is a verse in the Holy Bible which states “There were giants on the earth those days who mated with the daughters of men…….” I cannot remember if it is from the Book of Genesis or the Book of Exodus. But, there were giants in ancient Lanka as well – to be precise in this particular case – in Anuradhapura when King Dutugemunu was King (164 BC – 140 BC.) The Mahavamsa confirms that his army consisted of a phalanx of twelve Giants who were a formidable fighting force as many an opposing army discovered to their cost. King Arthur of Britain had his ‘Knights of the Round Table’, Robin Hood in Sherwood forest had his band of ‘Merry Men’ and King Dutugemunu had his “Dasa Maha Yoda” (Army of 12 giants). Every schoolboy has heard about these Supermen from their parents as children listening to bedtime stories, or even in their history classes. I wont mention the name of these giants here for reasons of brevity, but in the context of this article one stands out, and his name was Nandimithra. Kimbulagala was Nandimithra’s birthplace. There is a larger than life statue of Nandimithra which greets the visitor. Kimbulagala is located in the middle of a forest, two miles from the town of Mamaduwa Paran which is well off the beaten track on the Horowapthana road, from Vavuniya. The drive to the site is very pleasant through rolling countryside where nature reigns supreme. Nandimithra was more than just a Giant and brawn. He was entrusted with security duties for the Northern and Eastern provinces of the island, and folklore of the area relates that King Dutugemunu was a frequent visitor to this area to meet his trusted Lieutenant. There is a folk museum of some archaeological interest, and a few scattered ruins in the vicinity. There are some caves with inscriptions in the Brahmin script dating to the 3rd century BC. but it appears that not much excavation has been carried out here. There is a 24 hour security watch on the site maintained by the army to deter treasure hunters. I met the very welcoming and friendly Monk to inquire about climbing to the summit and he was cautiously ambiguous. He never said it could not be done, but advised us that it was not easy. Very kindly he accompanied us to the starting point of the climb which consisted of a few steps. But that was all. Thereafter, you found the best way upwards, and it was not a walk in the park. This climb was as difficult as the one at Mapagala, which I will not trace in detail, but shall leave to the reader’s imagination. However, once you reach the summit, nature rewards you with another display of her handiwork with jaw dropping vistas of Mannar, Mullaitivu, Vavuniya, Trincomalee and Anuradhapura in the distance, and sun dappled multi coloured hills.
I cannot conclude this article without recording my visit to what I call “The House of Hommage”. This was the home of one of the greatest scholars of Sri Lanka, the late Dr. Senerat Paranavitana
a former Commissioner of Archaeology whose focused scholarship, literary sensitivity and poetic imagination gave us the classic “Story of Sigiriya”. His home is very close to Mapagala. I was not able to enter because I saw that the house was occupied and not wishing to intrude, I stood near the front gate and my camera did the rest.
EPILOGUE.
Remains of ancient palaces and monuments lie scattered all over this island paradise which the jungle has claimed as her own. I carry memories of sites and treasures hitherto known to only a few
and have a deep concern for the stories I heard of treasure hunters in some remote sites which are unguarded. I remember on a visit to Egypt, specifically to the Valley of the Kings, there is a line from the “Book of the Dead” on the walls of King Tutankhamen’s innermost shrine which reads “I am yesterday. I know tomorow”. The discovery of his tomb holds out hope that the discovery of another tomb still intact exists – maybe more than one. Greater archaeological monuments of ancient Lanka other than the ones already known to us maybe discovered in future. The use of electronic sensors, enhance the chances of such discoveries. But, the particular qualities of a Howard Carter – creativity and insights honed by expert training and experience will be required to discover ancient Lanka’s archaeological treasures in future. In 1983 stringent laws passed in Egypt resulted in camel drivers, hawkers, touts, and everybody who was not a tourist being unable to access the tourist sites and must now keep well back from the monuments – a serious blow to treasure hunters.
” Ere long my footsteps will tarry
Along the golden paths
In ancient cities of timeless splendour
I love with all my heart.
This traveller now finally rests
And lays aside his pen
But to ancient cities of glory wide
I will take you once again.”
Bernard VanCuylenburg.
