It all happened in Colombo – a generation ago – By Upali Salgado
The changing face of Colombo, and the lifestyles of her people exposed to Western culture are always fascinating.
Two writers, Herbert Hulugalle, a former Editor of the Ceylon Daily News, and Dr. R.L. Brohier, OBE, have in print recorded many facets of the History of Colombo, which was once a Moor trading centre and later a Portuguese and Dutch cittadel. During British times, it was known as the ‘Garden City’. This story is to rekindle the interest of readers about what life in Colombo once was.
The prominent landmarks that beautify the landscape of Colombo are Slave Island with the picturesque Beira Lake encircling the human settlement, and the Galle Face walk (‘Green’ as it is known today). Moors and Malays have lived in Slave Island for over 800 years, and also ‘Kaffir’ soldiers, brought from Mozambique and the Sudan to serve as soldiers in the British army. Their imprints are Mosque Lane, Malay Street, Moor’s Passage, Rifle Street and Arab Passage. The Kaffirs who mixed up with the indegenous population have now moved out to be in Palavi (near Puttalam) and at Batticaloa.
Galle Face Green (founded by Sir Henry Ward in 1846), was “dedicated to the Ladies of Colombo”, who gathered there in the evenings with their babies in prams. The “Kaffirs” who were slaves, met at Galle Face Green to sing their lively songs. Afghan money lenders who visited the metropolis during British colonial times, sat on the green in circles, comparing notes of the clients who avoided paying interest. In those days, there was no developed banking system to dole out loans. In that scenario, it was not uncommon to see a poor underpaid mercantile clerk evade the strong arm of the Afghan by taking a circuitous route to work, sporting a wig to cover his bald head and feigning a ‘limp’.
As seen even today at London’s Hyde Park, soap box orators of the prestigious YMCA Forum, lectured aloud for or against impending legislation. They were well received for their eloquence. Using no microphones, they entertained onlookers who munched gram and drank the sweet saruwath. The Police band was present on week-ends to play music. The popular numbers were ‘The Donkey’s Serenade’, ‘Daisy-Daisy’ and ‘Clementine’.
At Kollupitiya, the Church of St. Michael and All Angels was gutted by a major fire. Thereafter, the devout parishioners decided to rebuild this church using granite. Hence it is called the “Gal Palliya”. At Deal Place, in a house named “Orwell”, there lived a German spy during World War II. He used a powerful transmitter to give valuable information about troop movements and the fortifications around the Colombo Port. Bagatalle Road became infamous when the “White House” murder took place. One Stephen Senewiratne was charged with the murder of his wife. This road also had the Pembroke Academy, the first post matriculation tutory, from which many passed out to enter the then Colombo University College, which conducted London examinations.
During weekends, most people were in their homes listening to the old valve radio. I remember hearing over the radio of the abdication of King Edward VIII. There were hardly any public dances or fashion shows. Sinhala plays written by John de Silva were staged at the famous “Tower”, Maradana, whilst in the early 30s the area close to the Khan clock tower, Pettah, was called the Racquet Court where the silent movie and other forms of entertainment, such as a visiting circus thrilled and amused those present.
A frequent visitor to homes was the torangal man who carried on his head a large box full of things such as glass bangles, hair clips, soap, hankerchieves, toys and perfumes. The Chinaman carried a huge bundle of cloth (linen) on his back – all imported from distant HongKong. Another Chinaman too came on a cycle with a box strapped onto his luggage carrier. The box had the words ‘Tasty Noodles’, but they were uncooked!
The Colombo race course attracted thousands on “Governor’s Cup” and “Robert’s Cup” days. The race course was converted to an airfield during the war, from where British “Spitfire” fighter planes took off. When the Japanese air raid took place in April 1942, twenty two enemy aircraft were shot down in a single day, as Colombo was fortified to be the last post of resistance for the Allies. Wreckage of Japanese fighter aircraft were seen at Galle Face, S. Thomas’ College, Mt. Lavinia cricket grounds, Hokandara, Mahara and at Mirihana. In the early 60s, on the Sinhalese new year day elephant races took place on the race course.
This brief story would not be complete without a reference to the fire brigade. Two horse-drawn fire engines were seen at Kollupitiya and at Kotahena. Later, modern motorised fire engines were located at Reclamation Road, Pettah. Three of the biggest fires recorded, took place when the Times building and the Grindlays Bank building were destroyed.
Today, we see thousands of ‘three wheelers’ in Colombo. Sixty years ago, it was the electrically operated tram car that moved about between Kotahena and Pettah via Dam Street. The fare then was only 5 cents for the journey.
When the Municipal Council decided that the tram car was to give way to the more efficient trolley bus, the last of the tram cars was to ply between Main Street and Bassfounder Street, and halt at midnight. Many kept awake to see the last of the ‘Old Ladies’, as they were known, on their final journey. The machine was decorated with balloons and illuminated. Seated inside was the Kotahena Brass Band, playing ‘Happy Times’ and ‘He’s a Jolly Good Fellow’. The Pettah boys who boarded the car, jam packed as it was, were in high spirits, having knocked down spirits, to keep their spirits up. What a scene it was… And finally, when the ‘dear old lady’ came to a grinding halt sharp at midnight, the merrymaking travellers alighted and gave the driver, the conductor and the ‘Old Lady’ three hearty cheers!
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